![]() I personally think the Nak is a better choice. I never thought the Dolby B tracked that well and the head wore fairly rapidly. It was rolled at both ends and has a fairly high amount of flutter and distortion. It was a "2 head" and compared to more current recorders, well, it just doesn't measure up. I like to learn as much as I can about audio, so I'd appreciate any input. Before this, I was seeking out a Nakamichi and I'm really wondering if I'd be any better off. (Stupid question: On multi-head tape decks, how many heads are used for playback?)Įither way, I think I'm gonna buy a copied manual to calibrate it properly. While it supposedly has high-quality heads and a great drive mechanism, how might it compare to a 3-head Nakamichi for example? I expect that I will only need the included Dolby-B noise reduction since C tends to screw up DIY recordings in my experience. How would the playback quality compare to a modern tapedeck? This is the original 1971 design. It's possible that vintage equipment might not be right for the source or destination material. I want maximum playback quality, even if the tapes were dubbed on bad equipment or pro-duplicated at a cheap factory. The #1 use of this deck will be to transfer my collection of old demo cassettes to digital archives. I do not have a tube amp, so having the sought-after Hi-Fi analog sound is probably not possible. While it has a good reputation, I have doubts that it's suitable for my non-vintage setup. It's famous for being the first true Hi-Fi tapedeck (an ancestor of the Nakamichi Dragon somehow), and some people even say that it "blows away" modern tape decks. If you want a 100% working deck, buy from a technician that has the knowledge and test equipment to properly repair a reel-to-reel tape recorder.I just came across an Advent 201 in good working condition. If you can do basic maintenance, or go as far as changing a belt, then great, you can most likely find a good deal on ebay or Craigslist. ![]() Unless you are buying a used reel-to-reel deck from a qualified tech that has just serviced it, or you can see a bill of sale of a recent (within one month) repair, assume that the deck will need 1-4 hours worth of work to get it to good operating condition – and that’s not including parts. Most reel-to-reel decks can be found on Craigslist, eBay, at vintage or thrift stores, or through word of mouth. ![]() As a tech, I can tell you that anything electronic or mechanical that sits idle for 10+ years will develop issues, and with reel-to-reels having both electronic and mechanical parts, the problems can be doubled or tripled. They’ve simply seen it run as a child, then the player was put into storage for 20+ years, but it worked the last time they used it. Many sellers are selling off their parent’s estates, and they may never even have operated a reel-to-reel before. Now, most sellers of anything used, electronic or otherwise, aren’t fraudsters or con artists, they simply aren’t technicians, and usually only know how to operate a reel-to-reel, if they even go that far. After I get the deck (the odd time where I actually purchased a machine from a seller like that), sure enough, it needs… about 4 hours worth of work. ![]() Having spent most of my life dealing with surplus electronics, I cannot count the number of times where I’ve been told by the seller “oh, it’s in perfect shape, it just needs…”. If it’s a part that cannot be found, and is a common failure in a particular make and model, you might be on the hunt for months if not years for a replacement part. In some cases however, parts are considered ‘unobtanium’, so in order to get that tape deck going, you’d have to find a donor parts chassis. While some belts and idler wheels have long been discontinued, some tape transports share common parts that can be switched between models, and usually substitutes can be found for obsolete electronic parts. Many repair shops won’t touch reel-to-reel machines due to lack of knowledge to repair them, and due to the lack of availability of parts. Labor times increase for multitrack semi-pro and pro decks. This includes a general cleaning, belt replacement, lubrication of the mechanism, and biasing to current tapes for the best frequency response. Figure that every used reel to reel will need 1-4 hours labor plus parts if it hasn’t recently been used or serviced. Most reel-to-reel recorders are at least 30 years old at this point, and all reel-to-reels can have electrical/electronic issues and/or mechanical tape transport problems. For this article, we’ll assume you’re looking for a stereo consumer tape deck, although most of what is written here also applies to semi pro and pro machines.īuying a used reel-to-reel tape recorder can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re not technically inclined, or know exactly what you’re looking for. So you’re going to buy that long coveted reel-to-reel, or maybe you want to upgrade your existing model with something higher grade.
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